Bustling Savanna: Exploring Hwange National Park
- Ruven Schoeman
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
Hwange National Park is Zimbabwe’s second most visited tourist destination. The park is known for its large number of big game, offering a similar experience to the Kruger National Park. Besides its stronghold for mammals, it is also the largest Big Five national park, spanning over fourteen thousand square kilometres. Although many other national parks in Zimbabwe often lack well-maintained roads, we found that Hwange’s roads were in good condition and linked many areas in the park.
This helps visitors to get the maximum out of their experience in the park, especially for birders who wish to thoroughly explore different habitats. Habitats in the park include Gusu, mixed and Mopane woodlands as well as Acacia woodland. Areas bordering dams and vleis are often covered in lush grass during the rainy season, (September to March) but sparse and dry during the dry season (April to August)
After our stay at Matobo National Park, we stopped for supplies and petrol at Bulawayo. Heading out of the city, the road conditions deteriorated, with occasional potholes requiring careful navigation. Despite this, the scenery was stunning, with sandy soils supporting tall woodland trees all with leaves of different shades of warm colours. Along this stretch, a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills strolled carefully by the roadside. The mild temperatures in Zimbabwe made it perfect for quick birding stops, and the teak woodland was alive with activity. A Racket-tailed Roller was a highlight along the roadside, perched peacefully on an exposed branch. Near the park gate, Bradfield's Hornbill made a striking appearance, signaling the start of an incredible birding experience.
The main Camp is near the park entrance and is the largest and most visited camp. We arrived with expectations of a lot of tourists and clogged campsites. Ironically, we were the only campers there. The acacia woodland hosted an array of familiar species, including Southern Black Tits, Long-billed Crombecs, Grey-billed Hornbills, Crimson-breasted Shrikes, Arrow-marked Babblers and Grey-headed Bushshrike. Overhead, Meyer’s Parrots flew past, their emerald bodies gleaming in the sunlight. As the day progressed, we explored the camp area further and found a flock of Retz’s Helmetshrikes near the park office. Red-billed Spurfowls scurried across the open grass, while Meve’s Starlings and Greater Blue-eared Starlings flitted between trees. A White-faced Owl was later spotted hunting near our camp, marking a thrilling end to our first evening.
First morning in Hwange
The morning began with a bustle of activity on the campgrounds. Several Bradfield’s Hornbills, alongside Grey- and Yellow-billed Hornbills, forage for food among the grass. Setting out for a guided walk, we flushed a Senegal Coucal from dense thickets and observed a pair of Crimson-breasted Shrikes moving energetically through the acacias. A roadside stop revealed a bird party of small passerines, including Grey-backed Cisticolas, Cape Crombecs, Violet-eared Waxbills, and Southern Black Tits. A short, late morning drive produced a variety of raptor species. Species include a Bateleur feeding on roadkill and an Ovambo Sparrowhawk darting through the woodland. The sandy miombo woodland south of Main Camp presented a group of the enigmatic Stuhlmann's Francolin (Zimbabwe's version of the Coqui Francolin). The Kennedy pans offered two distinct habitats and birding experiences. At Kennedy Pan 1, African Jacanas, Little Grebes, and Swainson’s Spurfowls foraged around the water. A Brown Snake Eagle and an African Harrier Hawk soared overhead. At Kennedy Pan 2, the landscape shifted to open woodland, where Namaqua Doves cooed softly, and a pair of Ovambo Sparrowhawks patrolled the skies. The highlight of the day came during a stop in a teak woodland near Main Camp. Playing a Racket-tailed Roller call on our speaker, we were rewarded with the sight of two birds emerging from deeper in the woodland. Their long tails and vivid plumage were unmistakable as they perched high in a tree, briefly allowing us to admire them. Not wanting to disturb them further, we refrained from additional playback and watched as they vanished back into the woodland—a memorable encounter with one of Hwange’s most sought-after species.
Night drive from Main Camp: Surprising encounters
The night drive began with a stroke of luck as a Bronze-winged Courser was spotted under an acacia tree just 1 km from camp. The excitement among the group caused the bird to take flight, but it was a promising start. Shortly after, a White-faced Owl was perched atop a small tree, providing excellent photographic opportunities. As the night unfolded, we came across a leopard resting by a pan and two male lions lounging at one another. But the most thrilling moment came when we heard the haunting calls of Three-banded Coursers near Nyamandhlovu Pan. After a careful search, we finally located one, its cryptic plumage blending perfectly with the grass. This sighting marked our 13th lifer for the trip and capped off an unforgettable evening.
From Main Camp to Robin's Camp
The drive to Robins Camp took us through sandy Mopane woodlands and open grasslands near pans, where raptors dominated the skies. Martial Eagles soared majestically, while Dark-chanting and Gabar Goshawks hunted from low perches. At Masuma Dam, Red- and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers clambered over hippos, and Desert Cisticolas flitted through the dry grass. Stepping out of the car nearly resulted in a heart-stopping moment. A lioness with two cubs ran past on the other side of the fence. The workers we informed were unbothered, calmly pointing out the lion resting nearby. This encounter underscored the unpredictable nature of the African wilderness.
A stop near Bembedi Pan turned into a magical experience when we heard the call of Arnot’s Chat from the tall Mopane trees. Using playback sparingly, we lured two dark birds closer to the road. They perched briefly in the canopy, their striking plumage and upright posture unmistakable. Watching these elusive birds flit between trees was a testament to the richness of Hwange’s biodiversity.
Last morning in Hwange
The final day’s highlight came at Big Tom’s Pan, where flocks of Yellow-throated Sandgrouse gathered to drink between 6 and 8 a.m. Their arrival was dramatic, with Lanner Falcons launching swift attacks. Nearby, a Tawny Eagle and Fish Eagle squabbled over a fish, adding to the action-packed morning. The morning ended with a cleaner named Tetunembu showing us a roosting White-faced Owl in a Mopane tree—another highlight of our incredible trip. Hwange National Park proved to be a birder’s paradise, with its diverse habitats and abundant birdlife. From the Racket-tailed Rollers in the teak woodland to the Yellow-throated Sandgrouse at Big Tom’s Pan, each sighting added a unique layer to our journey. Encounters with Arnot’s Chat and the cryptic coursers were unforgettable, while the close call with the lion at Masuma Dam reminded us of the raw, untamed beauty of Africa. With 13 lifers added to our list and countless memories made, this trip reaffirmed why Zimbabwe remains a premier destination for birders and nature enthusiasts alike.
To plan and book your next Zimbabwe birding adventure, be sure to visit The Birding Life's African Birding Hub - https://www.thebirdinglife.com/african-birding-hub
The Birding Life is proud to officially partner with Birding Ecotours to offer small group and custom birding tours to incredible destinations such as Zimbabwe. Their Premium Zimbabwe: The Ultimate Bird and Mammal Safari takes you to Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, Matobo National Park, and the world-famous Mana Pools.
If you want a Zimbabwe birding experience that delivers unforgettable birds and legendary wildlife, email info@birdingecotours.com to find out more about this tour and the other Zimbabwe trips offered by Birding Ecotours.
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